My Mesoamerican Memories

March 8, 2008

Hello again. I finally have something interesting to report. I thought that you might not want to hear about how my fun-filled fall fun revolved around analyzing specimens, and writing manuscripts. Instead, I waited until I had something exciting to share. I have just returned from a month-long field excursion to Costa Rica and getting my act back together. Let me share a few of the memories I have about my Costa Rican experience:

The reason for my visit was a marvelous new UCSC course that provides undergraduate students with some field experiences including conducting research projects, visiting tropical forests, and seeing monkeys up close and personal. All in all a fantastic opportunity for anyone, including me, the teaching assistant. The first stop on our adventure was Hacienda La Pacifica, in the Guanacaste province. This dry forest site is situated in the arid northwestern portion of Costa Rica, and it was really lovely. We arrived in conjunction with two researchers who have been studying the howler monkeys that live at the preserve every year for the past 30 years or so. For two weeks the students and I were able to observe some monkeys and some monkey research first hand. Now howlers are loud animals, but I really did not understand how impressive their calls are until I heard some calling at all hours of the day and night near where we stayed. They sound something like a mix between a dog and a donkey and their voices carry quite well across the forest.

While staying at La Pacifica we had plenty of non-monkey field experiences as well. These included buying supplies for 20 people for lunch every day at the local grocery store, reminding myself what it is like to live somewhere hot, enjoying lots of tasty rice and beans, like the traditional Costa Rican gallo de pinto dish, and falling in love with the region’s giant grass hoppers and katydids that visited the light outside of our room every night. We were also introduced to the thrilling driving conditions on the Pan American Highway. Imagine a small, 2-lane country road that is frequented by an assortment of giant semi’s, tractors, pedestrians, and fast small cars. I could not have driven on this road, and am very grateful that I didn’t have to. Instead, I spent my vehicle time as copilot for my fellow TA, Marissa. Just being in a van on that road made me nervous and I will forever be very impressed with Marissa’s nerves of steel.

While on the West side of Costa Rica, we went on two small excursions: Santa Rosa and Monte Verde National Parks. Like La Pacifica, Santa Rosa is a dry forest, but unlike La Pacifica, the forest at Santa Rosa is unfragmented. We saw some big birds, agoutis, and a cave full of bats, and had capuchins dropping things on our heads during our picnic lunch. Our Santa Rosa trip ended with a swim in the Pacific Ocean at Playa Hermosa. It felt so very good to cool down by swimming in a large body of water. I couldn’t help but take a long swim out to the moored boats offshore and back. Our second trip, Monte Verde National Park, was cooler and wetter than our trip to Santa Rosa. Monte Verde is a high elevation cloud forest, and is a rather hefty drive from La Pacifica. After being so hot and dry at La Pacifica, we actually enjoyed hiking in the rain. We stood on the continental divide but couldn’t see anything but clouds and fog in any direction. The fog along with the wind and rain whipping our faces made our hike a rather otherworldy experience. After our hike, we dried out and a sizeable coati joined us for lunch.

After La Pacifica, we headed east, across the mountainous interior and onto the humid eastern lowlands. We stayed at El Zota, a remote and pleasant family-run research station. Here the forest was wetter, denser, and darker and the few trails that have been cut through the forest are muddy and full of mosquitoes. How authentic! We were able to view multiple species of monkeys (howlers, capuchins and spider monkeys), frogs, birds, snakes, and one sloth. I was especially fond of the spider monkeys and the tiny but brilliantly-colored poison dart frogs. I would also like to mention that the food was incredible at El Zota. We had mounds of rice, beans, salads, curries, empanadas, fresh fruit, fresh juice, you name it. I really miss the cooking.

At El Zota, the students conducted their own research projects, and I had a little time to myself to relax, reflect, explore, and conduct some of my own research. We were also able to take a two-day group vacation to visit Tortuguero National Park. Tortuguero is situated on the Caribbean, so most of us were anticipating swimming in the ocean. But the Caribbean in this area is actually quite rough, so we only looked at the ocean. We were, however, able to get in several other good adventures including boat rides in the pouring rain, hiking up a muddy and steep hill behind our hotel to see some spectacular views, and participating in a zip-line canopy tour. This was a great two-day excursion.

And then it was time to return to the US. I am glad to be home but I do some very fond memories of our Costa Rican trip.

What else have I been up to? Mostly, my time is spent working long hours prepping and analyzing samples in my lab at school. I am impressed with the progress I have made in the past year and I look forward to the sense of accomplishment I will feel when I finish my current project. I have a lot of science in store for me this year, including presentations at several international conferences, and manuscript preparation. Should be interesting. Maybe the next time you hear from me I will be a famous scientist…  or maybe you will have to wait a few more years… Regardless, I will have more good things to share with you in a few months. Until then, happy spring to everyone.

Sincerely,

Brooke